Niseko, Japan’s Own St. Moritz – NYTimes.com By ONDINE COHANE
The 2010-11 ski season ran 165 days, Nov. 29 to May 12, and many days saw fresh snow fall.
Niseko was coined the “St. Moritz of the Orient” by insiders in the 1960s, but the area still remained seriously under the radar until the ’90s, when it became the preferred playground for Australian snowboarders tipped off to the powder. Now, despite avid interest from well-heeled Asian skiers who arrive from places like Singapore and Hong Kong at Hokkaido’s new international airport, New Chitose, there are no waits for lifts even during holidays, and the resorts remain authentically Japanese.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
The closest airport is the New Chitose airport outside Sapporo. From there, your hotel can arrange a bus or private transfer, taking around two and a half hours to reach Hirafu, or you can book your own at skybus.co.jp/en/. Taxis and shuttles are plentiful for getting around the village.
WHERE TO STAY
The Greenleaf Niseko Village (81-136 44-3311; thegreenleafhotel.com) doubles with breakfast start at 10,150 yen a person ($135 at 75 yen to the dollar). At Suiboku (81-136-21-5020; suibokuhirafu.com), a two-bedroom condo starts at 75,000 yen a day.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Most condos and hotels have ski and snowboard rental (at the Greenleaf, for example, it costs about 2,250 yen a day for poles, skis and boots). Ski schools like Niseko Village Ski School and Niseko Adventure Center (nac-web.com) offer individual lessons for less than 750 yen.
The culinary scene is one of the town’s main draws but you’ll have to book early to get into the top spots. At Ezo Seafoods (81-136-22-3019; ezoseafoods.com), be sure to try the Hokkaido fresh oysters. For small plates and yakitori style (food on skewers) try Bang Bang (81-136-22-4292) and A-bu-cha (81-136-22-5620). And don’t miss J-Sekka (81-136-21-5022). The complex gives you a full education in the island’s local and seasonal produce. There are also rooms from 10,500 yen a night. Kamimura offers 5- and 10-course tasting menus (81-136-21-2288; kamimura-niseko.com).
You can relax tired muscles at the onsen. Some hotels, like the Greenleaf, have their own, or you can try the Yukoro Onsen in the middle of Hirafu village, small but atmospheric. And after detoxing, retox at Gyu (gyubar.com/Home.html), with its great cocktail list, as well as whiskeys and local wines.
