Café bills was opened on 18 April 2012 at Tokyu Plaza Omotesando, which is the first café in the centre of Tokyo. I did not visit Tokyo this year (flying via Narita Airport doesn’t count). The Australian cafe is famous for the world’s best breakfast – the ricotta pancake. It has changed Australia’s breakfast culture with celebrities like Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz went out of their way to visit the main cafe in Sydney!

I figure I’ve to arrive earlier than the opening time of 8:30am as a long will form before that.

The organic egg with toast (1200yen) is picked as the world’s best egg dish by the New York Times and other foreign media. Usually scrambled egg is mixed inside a frying pan, but Omotesando bills’ scrambled egg is mixed only two or three times. The light and fluffy eggs melt in the mouth and are made from fresh eggs with rich butter. It seems creamy yet firm at the same time, and it goes perfectly with the crunchy toast.

This is the ricotta pancake with bananas and honey comb butter (1400yen). After tasting the first mouthful, you’ll be convinced about why this is the world’s best breakfast. It is baked well, yet light and fluffy, spreading inside your mouth in an instant! It is made with plenty of ricotta cheese. Pour the maple syrup over the top and eat the fresh bananas with the sweet pancake. This is the pancake Leonardo DiCaprio was said to have come every day at the café.

Omotesando bills is a popular restaurant with a 2-3 hour wait even on the weekday! You can enjoy a tranquil breakfast of the scrambled egg or ricotta pancake while listening to the birds chirping.

■Omotesando bills
Hours – 8：30-23：00
Holidays – Irregular holidays
Access – 4 minutes walk from Harajuku station
Address – Tokyu Plaza Omotesando , 4-30-3,Jingumae,Shibuya-ku,Tokyo Tel – 03-5772-1133
Website – http://bills-jp.net/

Getting there: Take the express on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line from Shibuya heading for Kawagoe-shi or Shinrin Koen and get off at Kawagoe Station. Be sure to take the train heading for Shibuya on the way back. It takes approximately 50 minutes and costs ¥570 one-way.

Alternatively take Seibu’s Limited Express Red Arrow (one train every hour) from Seibu Shinjuku Station for Hon Kawagoe Station. Seibu offers aKoedo-Kawagoe discount package including a round trip and unlimited travel on bus system. You may wish to check out my last year’s trip to Kawagoe in Reliving Edo Day.

History buff’s bus

For whom the bell tolls

Candy fantastic

Shogun’s choice

Related articles

• Reliving Edo Day

We left Asahikawa (旭川) early in the morning as we were going to catch the 7.20am train bound for Obihiro (帯広). On board the train, we drank vegetable juice from Furano which we bought in the Asahikawa Tourist Office last night.

We tried to catch a nap but two noisy children kept waking us up. This was the first time we met such an inconsiderate mother who did not tell her 2 children to keep quiet in public area. They were all over the place. Finally, we had peace of mind when we reached Obihiro (帯広) at 11.34am. At the small train station, we managed to find the Obihiro (帯広) Tourist Information Office, and a small replica of Kofukuo Station (幸福駅) in a small shopping centre. However, the first guy we approached was not of much help. A woman quickly came to our rescue and gave us a lot of brochures and bus time-table as well as giving us directions to the places of visit.

We felt the scorching heat when we walked out of the train station.

Thankfully, our hotel, Richmond Hotel Obihiro Ekimae was just across the road.

After we checked into our hotel, we walked back to the train station’s Esta West Annex. We are having buta don (豚丼, pork rice) for lunch at Butadon no Butahage Obihiro Honten (豚丼のぶたはげ帯広本店).

Although it’s lunch hour and crowded in the small shop, it did not take too long for us to get a table.

We ordered the smallest portion of pork rice to leave some space for dessert later The pork is thick, juicy and fresh (it does not have a “pork taste” ). However, if the pork was marinated for a bit long, it would taste better.

After lunch, we walked past three “hands” sculpture and headed down Heigen Dori (平原通).

We could feel the mid-noon sun. Oh, there is an Indian Restaurant here.

When we saw the reindeer sculpture, we have reached our destination.

For desserts, we were visiting Rokkatei (六花亭), the oldest western restaurant in Obihiro (帯広). However, my love affairs with Rokkatei (六花亭) started in 2004 when I had the first taste of “Marusei butter sandwich” (マルセイバターサンド), which is rich butter cream with dried raisins sandwiched between two pieces of biscuits. This signature patisserie of Rokkatei (六花亭) remains as my favourite biscuit till today. However, it must be consumed within a week and could only be bought in Hokkaido, which makes it very precious if it ever reach Singapore shore.

Of course, Rokkatei (六花亭) has many other delicious confectionary such as the freeze-dried strawberry coated in chocolate and other lovely chocolate.

Although we had our lunch, we were going to end it with nice desserts. At the simple and no frill restaurant, we saw the waitresses and chef singing birthday song to a guest whose birthday is today. By the way, their good voices were impressive as they sang the birthday song A Capella style.

Although there were only two of us, we ordered three different dessert to share

We strolled back to the train station to catch a shuttle bus that would send us to our ryokan tonight.

It’s so hot today! Then we realized it’s 34 deg C when we saw this giant thermometer at the entrance of the train station. The shuttle bus from our ryokan was already here. However, we still had to wait…it appeared that someone was late. An old couple apologized non-stop though they were late like 10 mins.

After about 20 mins drive, we first reached Togachigawa Onsen Dai-ichi Hotel where everyone alighted. Next, we were sent to the Annex where our ryokan, Sanyoan (三余庵) is.

We were received at the entrance and were served with a refreshing glass of tea and dessert.

Next we were to choose a yukata for ourselves. So fun.

Sanyoan (三余庵) is at the Tokachigawa Onsen (十勝川温泉), where it is quite close to Obihiro’s urban district and hotspring gushes out along the Tokachi River. We were brought to our room, Snow Country (雪国, Yukiguni). At the peak of summer, this name does offer some relieves.

Actually, the name Snow Country is based on a novel by Yasunari Kawabata. There is a novel in the study desk drawer.

The name Sanyoan (三余庵) comes from the great educator Sanyo Tsuchiya, a mentor of the Tokachi and Obihiro region’s pioneering forefather Benzo Yoda. Tsuchiya believed in an old Chinese teaching that says farmers should study by reading between stints of farm work, particularly at three specific times (sanyo in Japanese, lit. “three extra times”), i.e., in winter, at night and on rainy days. These “times” represent affluence of the mind.

Ironically, we were going to forget about time and spent the afternoon relaxing. Yes, free from all care.

First, we took a tour around our spacious room. There were 2 sinks. But the highlight of staying in Sanyoan (三余庵) was…. the cyprus bath tub?

We have a private cyprus bath tub but the highlight is the free flow of Tokachigawa’s moor hot springs, which are rich in organic botanical nutrients, from the tap. This special moor hot spring is a rare type of hot spring that is found only in two areas of the world. One of them is at Tokachigawa Onsen where Sanyoan (三余庵) and Tokachigawa Onsen (十勝川温泉) get this moor hot spring, which is known as Bijin-no Yu (meaning “hot spring for beauty”). The amber-colored hot water readily permeates the skin, leaving the skin smooth and moist after soaking in the hot spring. The water of the moor hot springs is also known as a natural skin lotion.

After we enjoyed our private bath, we moved on to try the outdoor bath in the ryokan compound. However, before we could enter the onsen, we were approached by a bartender to relax at the bar counter first as the onsen was “crowded” now. So we tried drinks that were “free of charge” including Tokachigawa wine and beer. hee hee.

After our relaxing bath, it’s time for dinner and we were slightly late as we saw many dinners into their 2nd or 3rd course.

The dishes are exquisite and delicious. Most of the ingredients come from different parts of Hokkaido.

I thought salt is just salt…then I realised there were Alpine salt and sea salt

We ordered two different main courses, mine was grilled giant King crab…

while sis was Tokachi beef. Yum!

When we opened this small container, it contained only ice…so we ate it, it tasted of citrus…guess it’s to clear our palate for the next dish.

Most of the time, rice was just plain rice. However, this was savory with beans too.

After our delish rice, we were told we could order potato noodle if we were still hungry. We ordered it to try, not that we were hungry. It’s simply delicious.

Finally, our dessert.

After the dessert, we could hardly walk…and we were given a small basket, containing inari for our supper. I guess we have to crawl to our bed if we were to take supper.

Related articles

• Stroll in Paradise, Asahidake
• Hokuryu Sunflowers
• Toyako to Noboribetsu Onsen to Asahikawa
• ‘Nature’ Day- Asahikawa to Furano
• Lavender, Patchwork and Curry
• Farm Tomita and City Sapporo
• Otaru Deja Vu
• Hello Hokkaido!
• Island Hopping I – Rebunto
• Island Hopping II – Rishirito
• Aomori to Hakodate
• Hakodate to Toyako

The noisy children woke us up. It’s only 5 plus in the morning. We thought we could sleep in. Instead, we went to the onsen for a soak. Nobody’s there, probably most were early risers. Anyway, we were all ready by 6plus and breakfast would only be served at 7am.

As we were catching the bus down to Asahikawa (旭川) at 11am, we had more than 3 hours to kill.

We went for a morning stroll after our breakfast…

…hoping to do some souvenir shopping at the retail shop at Sanroku Ropeway Station. Admiring the plants along the way…

The road was quiet except for a couple of cars that drove past us.

We stopped by briefly at Yukomanbetsu Alpine Botanical Garden (勇駒別高山植物園) but most of the alpine plants we saw were drying up, probably it was warmer here. We met the blind man and his two children again, they were coming out of the ropeway station and walking towards the hotel next to the station. Yesterday, they might have alighted at the wrong stop, i.e. two stops earlier and ended up with insufficient time for the walking trail at Asahidake (旭岳). On our way back to the hostel, we also met our fellow hostel mate, a French guy who was on his way to the ropeway in his slipper, we feared for him.

After the morning stroll, we still have more than 2 hours to kill…but we had to check out at 10am. (In fact, we were the last to check out of the hostel.) The earliest bus departing from here was still 1 hr away. However, our fellow hostel mate, the French started queuing up at the bus stop more than 30 minutes ahead of the scheduled time. As for us, we were resting in the activity room and later at the front porch of the hostel  Finally, we were adapting to the slow life here.

We reached Asahikawa (旭川) after 1230pm and checked into our hotel. We walked over to the nearby  Santoka Ramen (山頭火). Although it’s lunch hour and quite crowded, we managed to get a table. We ordered their signature Shio Ramen and gyoza.

The ramen was delicious but the shop was so warm.

We walked to Asahikawa (旭川) train station after our lunch. We were heading to Fukugawa (深川) to transfer to a bus for Hokuryu (北竜町).

The new train station is so much larger than the old station which was pulled down.

There is even space for installation art and exhibition. After we reserved our tickets to Fukugawa (深川), we double checked with the tourist information officer since our information was based on a Taiwanese blog. However, the tourist information officer was not sure and flabbergasted. She was frantically calling her counterpart and told us it was very complicated to get to Hokuryu (北竜町) from Fukugawa (深川).

Based on the “limited information” we received from the Asahikawa Tourist Information Office and the Taiwanese blog, we stepped out of Fukugawa (深川) Train Station busy looking for traffic light junction.

We walked along the main street which looked quiet on a Sunday afternoon.

We walked past a carnival but we did not stop-by as we had to catch A bus.

The sidewalks of Fukugawa (深川) were lined with flowers. According to the tourist information officer, we’d to walk past two traffic lights to reach the bus stop in front of Fukugawa City Hospital. But there is no hospital in sight.

We came to the 3rd junction and saw this architecturally interesting  building. Based on another map we saw in front of the train station, we should continue walking to another junction and turn to our right to reach a hospital.

Finally, we saw the hospital! But it’s definitely more than 5 mins’ walk.

We read the instruction in the blog and double checked. A helpful bus driver called out to us and told us to wait at this bus stop. Later, we realised that he was also the same bus driver for our trip to Hokuryu (北竜町).

As the bus travelled, it backtracked part of our route. Then we realized that the Asahikawa Tourist Information Officer gave us the wrong instruction! We should turn right at the THIRD traffic light junctions (not 2nd!). The bus stop is not at the hospital but the bus departs from the hospital.

Then we read the Taiwanese blog again. The bus stop was at Fukugawa Junction Street (深川十字街). The Taiwanese blogger added a line saying the hospital could be reached after turning right at the 4th junction. So this piece of information confused the reader.

Anyway, as long as we did not miss the bus, we were fine. After about 35 min ride on the Sorachi Chuo Bus (空知中央バス), we reached our destination as the bus driver told us to alight at 北竜中学校, right in front of a school field.

We were here to see SUNFLOWERS! Hokuryu Town is Hokkaido’s most famous sunflower display with 1.3 million sunflowers!

Sunflower represents summer. There are several species of sunflowers planted in a section here.

The hilly county of Hokuryu Town was completely covered with sunflowers during the ‘Hokuryu Town Sunflower Festival’, which was held from mid-July to mid-August.

The sunflower town received 200,000 visitors every year. However, today was not very crowded. And the buggy bus stopped functioning by 5pm sharp.

Even at the Rest Area, most of the cafe and shops were closed. Its “packaging” was not as good as Tomita Farm in Furano. We missed a bus by 5 mins so we had to hang around here.

No one was at the bus-stop as most visitors drove here. We had to wait for our next bus scheduled to arrive an hour later.

We could only see endless fields.

By the time we reached Fukugawa Train Station, it was already dark at 7pm.

We travelled another 30 mins to reach Asahikawa (旭川). We rested in our hotel before walking to Ichikura (一蔵) for our last bowl of ramen at 9pm. So far, we had tried Aoba Ramen House (旭川らぅめん青葉), Baikohken (梅光軒 ), Hachiya no Ramen (蜂屋のラーメン) and Santoka Ramen (山頭火) in Asahikawa (旭川).

My sis ordered their signature ramen covered with a thick layer of scallions but she found roast pork beneath it.

As for me, I ordered a shoyu scallop ramen…delish!

Our stay at Asahikawa (旭川) ended on a good note…ramen…Such bliss!

Related articles

• Stroll in Paradise, Asahidake
• Toyako to Noboribetsu Onsen to Asahikawa
• ‘Nature’ Day- Asahikawa to Furano
• Lavender, Patchwork and Curry
• Farm Tomita and City Sapporo
• Otaru Deja Vu
• Hello Hokkaido!
• Island Hopping I – Rebunto
• Island Hopping II – Rishirito
• Moored at Tokachigawa Onsen
• Aomori to Hakodate
• Hakodate to Toyako

This is the 3rd day that we woke up early in the morning. We have to catch an early train departing at 7.10am for Asahikawa (旭川), our next destination.

We walked past the shopping street that we never noticed as we usually took another route. Some shops have signs in Russian as well, and there was a shop selling Russian cosmetic. Too late.

Today is another sunny day in Wakkanai (稚内) and we hope for the same for Asahikawa (旭川).

Another photo opportunity for Japan’s Northernmost Rail Track.

The Wakkanai Train Station is rather new and spacious, more like a library to me.

There would be a new movie, which was filmed in Wakkanai and Rishirito, to be screened on 3 Nov 2012. Will check this out later.

In the train station, there’s an ongoing exhibition of the history of the area here, including photographs of the Wakkanai Port Northern Breakwater Dome (港北防波堤ドーム). From the photos, it appeared that in its heyday, it’s used as a landing platform for passengers boarding and alighting from the ferry docking at the harbour.

In fact, the transport system was integrated in the past. One could get off from the ferry and board the train or vice versa as the railway was right next to the harbor.

Finally, we left Japan’s Northernmost City from the Northernmost Station…

on the Super Soya, which is a limited express and not really a bullet train.

After a rather bumpy 3hr 24min, we finally we reached Asahikawa (旭川) at 10:44am. When we got out from the exit of the gate, we were surprise to be greeted by a spanking new building. Anyway, we quickly went to the Tourist Information Office (which is really huge and nice) for some basic information. We walked a fair distance to get out of the train station. Then we realised the old station was GONE! Okay, our last trip was more than 3 years ago.

Other than that, the streetscape still look the same as those in my memory. Just that it’s rather humid and warm here compared to 3 years ago or even Wakkanai (稚内) today. Although the temperature read 22 deg C, I felt that it’s more than 25 deg C.

After we offload our large luggage at our hotel for the following day. We quickly walked down the main shopping street in search of D-ramen shop. During our last trip we have tried Aoba Ramen House (旭川らぅめん青葉) and Baikohken (梅光軒 ), so this time round we were searching for this particular ramen shop that people raved about in travel magazines, books and blogs.

It’s tough locating Hachiya no Ramen (蜂屋のラーメン) though we have a map and direction given by the Tourist Officer. We have to retort to asking for direction midway yet it was not useful as the woman gave us the wrong direction

We walked past a signboard then walked back to found the shop name there. We walked into an alley called ふらりーと. [Later we found out that this is one of the 2 entrances to the shop after we returned from Japan. There is another entrance from a small parking lot on the other side.]

We finally found it! Perspiring profusely under the humid weather, we went into a big shop.

Thankfully, the shop owner did not go on an energy-saving drive as the air con was blowing very powerfully.

We each ordered a bowl of shoyu ramen, and mind you, it’s not your normal shoyu ramen. You either love it or hate it. The delicious noodles are the typical starchy, thick and chewy type that Asahikawa is known for. The broth was niboshi (fish), blended with tonkotsu-shoyu and burnt lard. It has a slightly burnt taste to it and both of us love the quirky taste. This yummy delicious ramen brightens a grumpy-grouchy face

Next, we rushed to squeeze in time for a cuppa. But we must find this obscure cafe Chiroru (珈琲亭ちろる), which is one of the Asahikawa city’s oldest cafe. We read that it is probably the most famous one since it was the setting in the novel “Hyoten (freezing point)” by Ayako Miura, Japan’s most famous Christian writer. However, there’s no sign directing us to the cafe. We found it after asking a helpful woman. Yay!

We immediately fell in love with this cafe.

The lovely vintage decor and the relax mood.

Though we would like to spend an afternoon here, we have only 15 minutes as we need to catch the bus to Asahidake Onsen (旭岳温泉). And the cafe is closed tomorrow (Sunday) and we are leaving Asahikawa (旭川) on Monday early in the morning.

We couldn’t resist having an iced-coffee in the warm day though. It’s really one of the best we ever have!

It would be lovely to sit and read in the courtyard on a cool summer day.

But we have to go to the open bus-stop No 4 in front of Asahikawa train station to board ” Ideyu-Go” Bus to Asahidake Onsen (旭岳温泉), 1320yen one way. There are only 3 buses per day in summer. We are catching the 2nd bus which would leave at 12:35pm.

We are staying overnight night in the Daisetsuzan National Park to embrace nature. The park is in the middle of Hokkaido and is locally known as “the roof of Hokkaido” since it is made up of the highest mountains in Hokkaido.

The hostel looks resort-like in the natural setting.

We checked into the hostel and the room rate was more expensive (for a youth hostel) than a hotel room in Asahikawa City. The manager told us it will take us about one and a half hour to complete a walking trail at Asahidake (旭岳). We walked 5 minutes to the  Sanroku Ropeway Station at 1,100m above sea level and parted 2800 yen per pax for a return trip on the ropeway.

The weather forecast for Sugatami Ropeway Station (姿見駅) at 1,600m above sea level is average at 17 deg C. Quite cool.

After 10 minutes, we were at Sugatami Ropeway Station (姿見駅), which was rather foggy. We got a map from the ranger and went on a 1.7km walking trail which according to the brochure should take about one hour to complete the course, including detours and side stops.

When we stepped out of the Sugatami Ropeway Station (姿見駅), we were greeted by an alpine meadow. I was busy taking photographs of the pretty flowers. First were the feathery Chinguruma.

Vibrant yellow Solidago Virgaurea ssp Asiatica in full bloom.

A short but steep climb to the No 1 Observation Platform offered an amazing view of Asahidake (旭岳) covered by fog. We rested for a while and at the same time waited for the fog to clear from the peak.

I love the deep violet Gentiana triflora var. japonica f. montana among the feathery Chinguruma and yellow Solidago Virgaurea ssp Asiatica.

Some gentle purple Miyama Rindou peeping out from the rocks.

Although we wore walking shoes, we were not quite ready by the terrain as we assumed it’s an easy stroll for people of all ages. The road trail was rocky with many tiny rocks and the steps or ascent could be high and steep in view of the natural setting. Probably we were not well-trained or prepared for such a trail which I would consider as mountain trekking instead. Most of the time, we have to walk gingerly to prevent twisting or spraining our ankles on the rocky ground.

Finally, we were greeted by Mangetsunuma (満月沼) shrouded in fog at No 3 Observation Platform.

Next is Kagami Pond (鏡池)…

and Suribachi Pond (擂鉢池)…

together both formed the Meoto Pond (夫婦池) during spring time, when the snow melts and water overflows between the two lakes to form a pond. Once the water recede, the ponds becomes two again.

We were still about 600m away from Sugatami Pond but felt that we have walked a long way. Asahidake is an active volcano that may erupt anytime. The valley at the peak formed when Asahidake erupted some 600 years ago.

We continued to enjoy the beautiful alpine flowers despite the rocky trail ahead.

Finally we reached Jigokudani (“hell valley” 地獄谷) at No 4 Observation Platform. There were ‘hell-like’ craters emitting volcanic fumes. We did feel like going through hell after a grueling “walk”.

However, the road ahead was still rocky though it’s considered flat

Finally, we were reaching Sugatami Pond (姿見の池), another highlight of this hiking trail. A pond that I looked forward to after reading about it in brochures. It literally means “to watch one’s own silhouette” because the inverted reflection of Asahidake could be seen on the water’s surface on a clear day.

This probably ended our trail but we were too happy too soon as the Sugatami Ropeway Station (姿見駅) is about 600m away! A group of Japanese family with old grandparents and young children overtook us. Indeed, we do not walk as fast as Japanese.

After they left us, it was so serene and still here. When I looked back, what I saw was a beautiful meadow with flowing stream and as if we have just experienced paradise.

Finally we reached Sugatami Ropeway Station (姿見駅). Phew! As it was getting more foggy. Right in front of the station is a man-made pond I presumed.

There were two different types of white flowers. This looked like Ezo Maruba Shimotsuke.

Unable to name this white flowers.

Christmas comes early. Is this a mistletoe?  We have no luck in seeing Ko Ezo Tsugazakura which blooms in the early summer. Oh well, an excuse to come back probably.

We rested at the station while waiting for the next ropeway. We saw the blind couple with their two young children who boarded the ” Ideyu-Go” Bus from Asahikawa Airport in the afternoon. I admired them for their bravery to travel with their young children and even attempt to walk this trail. I should stop whining about how gruelling is this trail.

At the exit of Sanroku Ropeway Station, we saw this cute Doreamon greeting us, saying something like you have a hard day! Indeed!

On our way back to the hostel, saw this interesting sewer cover, looked like we have missed seeing another cute animal who lives in this national park.

Never mind, we should smell the flowers.

Dinner had started by the time we reached our hostel. It took us more than 2 hours to complete the 1.7km trail! We were famished and the dinner looked sumptuous.

Oh well, I was too hungry to resist this salmon (not my favourite cooked fish).

Later in the evening, we soaked in the onsen for a while. It’s very peaceful and still to soak in the open-air onsen with the large lotus leave overhanging.

The saving grace tonight is that we could wake up any time in the morning as there’s no early bus to catch.

Related articles

• Hokuryu Sunflowers
• Hello Hokkaido!
• Island Hopping I – Rebunto
• Island Hopping II – Rishirito
• Moored at Tokachigawa Onsen
• Aomori to Hakodate
• Hakodate to Toyako
• Toyako to Noboribetsu Onsen to Asahikawa
• ‘Nature’ Day- Asahikawa to Furano
• Lavender, Patchwork and Curry
• Farm Tomita and City Sapporo
• Otaru Deja Vu

At 13:05, we boarded the ferry from Kafuka Port (香深), Rebunto (礼文島) to Oshidomari Port (鴛泊), Rishirito (利尻島) with a half-empty stomach.

Thankfully we have foresight after yesterday’s experience. We ate our corn bought from Wakkanai Fukuko Market (稚内副港市場).

The shop in the ferry does not sell lunch bento, so we bought a small tub of Wakkanai Milk ice cream instead. We’ve been eating ice cream, snacking, and not eating proper lunch.

In 40 minutes’ time, we reached Oshidomari Port (鴛泊). Rishirito (利尻島) is a remote, small island about 20 kilometers off the northern tip of Hokkaido, with a circumference of 60 kilometers and Mount Rishiri, a dormant volcano, at its center. Together with neighboring Rebunto (礼文島), Rishirito (利尻島) belongs to the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park.

This time round, we could only find a small cargo office that sells Soya Bus tour ticket. We bought 2 tickets for a 2hr 50min Course B tour at 3100 yen per pax. Again, they only take cold hard CASH. We boarded the tour bus quickly as the tour starts at 2pm. The tour bus is bigger than the bus in Rebunto as it’s a double-decker.

Our first stop is the Hime Pond (Himenuma 姫沼), which is a man-made pond at the foot of Mount Rishiri. The view of the mountain reflecting in the pond often appears as poster-shot.

Mount Rishiri, commonly called Rishiri-Fuji, is a 1721 meter tall dormant volcano in the center of Rishirito (利尻島). After explaining in Japanese, the tour guide let us take the broad walk around the pond for about 30 minutes.

It was an enjoyable walk as we strolled in the shades of the greenery while admiring the beautiful scenery. There were many interesting insects and floral to discover.

We saw a tiny bunch of purple cherry-like plant.

The pond really doesn’t look man-made to begin with. I felt it is such a natural setting.

There were less “burnt” Ezo Nyuu here, probably growing in the shades.

After we gathered, the tour bus brought us to Otatomari Pond (オタトマリ沼) which is the biggest pond in Rishirito (利尻島). It is located at the southern part of the island, the view of Mount Rishiri as backdrop is splendid.

Instead of enjoying a walking trail around the pond, we decide to find food to fill our stomach at a nearby souvenir shop.

We smell nice BBQ scallop. WOW, am I hungry? Definitely! The butter brings out the natural sweetness and freshness of the scallop.

We also ordered 2 sea urchin sushi to fulfill our goal of eating fresh sea urchin on the  islands since we couldn’t get our hands on any Uni-don, i.e. raw sea urchin on rice, at Rebunto (礼文島). Grown in the severe north sea, these sea urchins that were nourished by the best seaweed Japan, were incredibly tasty.

Next, we visited Senhoushi Misaki Park (仙法志御崎公園), which is located at the southern tip of Rishirito (利尻島) and affords the best view of Mt. Rishiri and Sea of Japan.

Along the coast was a variety of strangely shaped rocks and stones produced by lava flow.

There is a an enclosed area where 2 sea seals were kept. They looked happy despite been in captive.

We also took time to watch the sea waves hitting against the rock. At one point, the waves were so high that we have to retreat to avoid been “wet”.

The famous Rishirito kelp and sea urchins are also found through clear water of the ocean.

We walked over to a souvenir shop that sells local product to get a packet of sea kelp. Oh gosh, the sea kelp were huge by any standard.

Before the tour ended, the tour bus stopped near the coast for us to watch from the bus, the Neguma no Iwa (The Sleeping Bear 寢熊之岩), which is a rock that looks like a bear lying down on the ground. The tour bus also stopped over near Jinmen Iwa (The Rock Face 人面岩), which is a rock that looks like the face of a person.

Again, we have only 15 minutes to board the next ferry back to Wakkanai (稚内) at 17:10. However, this time we weren’t so lucky as most of the area were occupied by or lying with passengers. We have no choice but to squeeze into an award area and sat straight for the rest of the journey for at least 1hr 40mins. Again, we bought some snacks to kill time.

At around 6.40pm, we enjoyed the sunset from the deck as we were preparing to alight from the ferry. It has been a long time that I’ve last seen the egg yolk.

After the sun set, it painted the sky orange-red.

By the time we alighted from the ferry, it has turned dark and we were to find our way back to our hotel.

The Wakkanai Ferry Terminal looked lonely in the dark. We were tired yet still have to walk back.

After we dropped our stuff in our hotel, we set off for Kurumaya Genji (車屋源氏) for Octopus Shabu Shabu, a local specialty as Wakkanai boasts the largest shipment of octopus. Alas, the restaurant was full and would not take any booking at about 7plus. There goes our dinner.

We quickly walked back to our hotel, hoping that they could recommend us good alternatives. The first one they suggested which we walked past in the evening was crowded. As we were tired and hungry, we opted for the 花楽 (居酒屋), which is right in front of our hotel. I was excited that I’ve never been to an Izakaya in all my Japan trips.

The shop is very vintage looking, I like!

However, it looks more like a family restaurant than a Izakaya run by 2 women. One of them got the help of a customer to communicate with us in English since we don’t understand the Japanese menu. Anyway, we tried to order to 2 glasses of Sours.

We ordered seaweed with vinegar and we were also served octopus.

How could I miss Uni-don (or sea urchin rice).

Initially, we thought this is chicken but it’s fried sting-ray, which is really good. We were told that this is a local favourite dish in Wakkanai.

We were full by the time we walked out of the Izakaya. We have not tried the ramen provided by the hotel yet. We were so full that we have to give it a miss for the second time.

Related articles

• Hello Hokkaido!
• Island Hopping I – Rebunto
• Stroll in Paradise, Asahidake
• Hokuryu Sunflowers
• Moored at Tokachigawa Onsen
• Aomori to Hakodate
• Hakodate to Toyako
• Toyako to Noboribetsu Onsen to Asahikawa
• ‘Nature’ Day- Asahikawa to Furano
• Lavender, Patchwork and Curry
• Farm Tomita and City Sapporo
• Otaru Deja Vu

We woke up very early at 4.30am. For our breakfast, we have bread and drank Wakkanai milk in our hotel room. Although it’s only 5.45am, it’s very bright as the sun rises early here in summer, probably at 4am plus. The street was very quiet except us.

We have to find our way to Wakkanai Ferry Terminal walking about 20 mins from our hotel. We are visiting two islands today, which is the highlight of this trip! But first we have to part with our moolah (they do accept credit cards!) with Heartland Ferry which operates the ferry for our trip today. Our routes will cost us a total of 5,460 yen per person for a 2nd class ticket but that’s the only transportation mode and we can’t swim there.

• Wakkanai (稚内) - Rebun 礼文島 (Kafuka Port 香深), 06:20 – 08:15 (115 minutes), 2400 yen
• Rebun 礼文島 (Kafuka Port 香深) - Rishiri 利尻島 (Oshidomari Port 鴛泊), 13:05 – 13:45 (40 minutes), 880 yen
• Rishiri 利尻島 (Oshidomari Port 鴛泊) - Wakkanai (稚内), 17:10 – 18:50 (100 minutes), 2180 yen

The weather forecast is 24 deg C with sunny with clouds! Yay!

Off we go to board the ferry. Inside the ferry, there’s no seat but rather it’s tatami style, meaning we either sit on the carpeted floor or like some passengers who have already lied on the floor. (Sorry no photos here as it’s a bit impolite to take photos of others sleeping.)

I went to the open deck to look back at Wakkanai(稚内) as the ferry left for Rebunto (礼文島) at 6.20am. What a beautiful day!

Our purpose of visit to Rebunto, which is famous for its rich flora, is to see the many alpine flowers in summer, some of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world. However, I’m afraid not many flowers may survive as the weather seems to be getting very hot this time round.

We fell asleep in the ferry (sitting against a backrest and not lying down like the others). Suddenly we see a beautiful scenery emerging in the horizon. It is Mount Rishiri on the island of Rishirito (利尻島）. It looks like Mt Fuji in the sea. Oh yes, did I mention that we saw it when our plane was landing at Wakkanai Airport Terminal.

Mount Rishiri, commonly called Rishiri-Fuji, is a 1721 meter tall dormant volcano in the center of Rishiri. It looks majestic and beautiful as we get closer.

By 8.15am, we reached Rebunto, which is a longish island, about 10 km north of Rishirito and 50 km off the northern tip of Hokkaido. Together with Rishirito, Rebunto belongs to the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park.

We managed to find the obscure Soya Bus ticket booth where we bought 2 tickets for a 4hr 20min Course B tour at 3900 yen per pax. However, they don’t take cards, cold hard CASH only. We boarded the tour bus quickly as the tour starts at 8.30am. The local tour is conducted in Japanese and as far as we are concern, we need this tour bus to ferry us to several sightseeing places as the local transport is infrequent.

Our first stop is the of Momoiwa Tenbo-dai (“Peach Rock” Observation Deck 桃岩展望台), which is a roundish peach-like hill in the Motochi region. We were greeted by many flowers (though some look “burnt”) and most unknown to me. I’m not too sure which are the alpine flowers, for I’ve never seen these flowers before.

This purple bell-like flowers look like Tsurigane-ninjin.

This looks like the remnant of Ezo Nokogiri-sou, yet still look pretty to me.

Not too sure about this fern-like plant.

There are many HUGE Ezo Nyuu, which are taller than us. I later found them in other parts of Hokkaido.

Then we walked slowly towards the observation deck.

There are more flowers further up.

Yellow Butterbur.

Finally, we reached the observation deck to be greeted by the Momoiwa (“Peach Rock” 桃岩).

From here we have a breath-taking view of the sea, especially the deep blue sky against the deep blue water.

It’s getting warmer but I won’t complain for it is absolutely marvelous to be here.

Momoiwa Tenbo-dai (“Peach Rock” Observation Deck 桃岩展望台) offers a combination of alpine flowers with a view of nearby Rishirito. The view of Rishiri-Fuji from the flower garden of alpine plants is terrific.

Yellow Touge-buki.

Delicate white Ezo Nokogiri-sou.

Next, the tour bus brought us to Momodai Nekodai (桃台貓台), which is just behind Momoiwa (“Peach Rock” 桃岩). The 250 metre-high giant rock looks more like a peach from this angle.

A distinctively shaped rock resembling a cat’s head called Nekoiwa (“cat rock” 猫岩), which can be seen from a distance after we walked up a trekking trail.

On the other side of the coastline of Nekoiwa is a 50-meter high Jizoiwa, which is a symbolic rock on the Motoji coast. It gets its name from its unique shape which resembles the guardian deity of children (Jizo in Japanese) whose hands are placed together in prayer.

The clear water is turquoise green and we could see the seabed.

Not too sure what’s the name of this cherry-tomato-like plant.

Pink Chishima Azami.

Next we moved over to Cape Sukai (Sukai Misaki 澄海岬). I found three cute Iwa Benkei hiding in a corner near the steps to the observation deck.

Fuchsia pink Takane Nadeshiko swaying in the wind.

Finally we reached the Observation Deck of Cape Sukai (Sukai Misaki 澄海岬). This cape is known as the best point from which to view the magnificently beautiful Rebun Blue sea.

Situated in the bay surrounded by the mountains, we could see sheer cliffs for tens of kilometers along the west coast.

The water is so clear that we could see the seabed. On our way down, at the mid-hill of another observation deck…

and we see this bunch of purple Chishima Rindou (finally see flowers that are indigenous to Rebunto).

We each bought a skewer of octopus at food eatery at the foot of the observation deck. We were hungry as it’s close to lunch time, and we have early breakfast at 5.30am. The octopus is the best I ever had despite the nondescript look, it’s so soft and succulent, not rubbery or chewy.

While waiting for the tour bus, we popped into a small shop that sells local handicraft. Oh well, no opportunity to part with our moolah.

On our way to 江戶屋山道, we saw two wild dotards (seals) sun-bathing on the shore comfortably…such bliss.

The tour bus sent us to 江戶屋山道 where we admired the beautiful coastline.

On a clear day, we could see Sakhalin far away.

Busy bee.

More fuchsia pink Takane Nadeshiko here.

More pretty Iwa Benkei.

The road to the sea?

Our last stop is Cape Sukoton (Sukoton Misaki 須古頓岬), which is the northernmost point of Rebun Island. We alighted in front of Japan’s northernmost provision/souvenir shop.

We walked past Japan’s northernmost minsuku which I almost booked a night stay.

Cape Sukoton (Sukoton Misaki 須古頓岬) offers a great view. One can see Sakhalin from here on a clear day.

From the cape, we can see Todo island (Sea Lion) right in front of us. In summer seals come and rest themselves here, and so do sea lions in winter.

Finally, we helped ourselves to kelp ice cream at the northernmost shop to round off this trip. We still could find any place selling fresh sea urchin. As the tour ended at 1250pm and we only have 15 mins to board the next ferry to Rishirito, we couldn’t find any place that sells bento. And thankfully we snack along the way.

I still didn’t get to see Rebun Usuyuki-sou (or Rebun Edelweiss), which is one of several protected, very rare kinds of alpine flowers found on Rebun Island. It is supposed to be in season now. It’s either the weather is too hot or we did not visit the area where it grows.

So this trip ended slightly incomplete but we were thankful for the good weather and beautiful scenery.

Related articles

• Hello Hokkaido!
• Island Hopping II – Rishirito
• Stroll in Paradise, Asahidake
• Hokuryu Sunflowers
• Moored at Tokachigawa Onsen
• Aomori to Hakodate
• Hakodate to Toyako
• Toyako to Noboribetsu Onsen to Asahikawa
• ‘Nature’ Day- Asahikawa to Furano
• Lavender, Patchwork and Curry
• Farm Tomita and City Sapporo
• Otaru Deja Vu

There is the Old Naval Watchtower (旧海軍望楼) which dates back to the conflicts over control of Sakhalin during the 1904 Russo-Japanese War.

Next is the Bell for World Peace (世界平和の鐘) a replica of a bell in the garden opposite the United Nations Building in New York. There are 3 bells all together, the 3rd on the island of Ishigaki in Okinawa. The Kosodate Peace Bell is a symbol of prayers for household, regional, and world peace. This monument was built from “10 yen donations” from the Wakkanai citizens, who vowed to make Wakkanai a peaceful city.


We wanted to eat something but this shop appears to be closed in the afternoon since it’s already close to 4pm. We were on “liquid diet” for the past 12 hours because we had porridge for breakfast on board the plane. While we were chasing for our connecting flight, we did not get to eat our lunch. While on board the plane to Wakkanai, it only served coffee and drinks. We only bought a small bowl of  ratatouille soup thinking we could get food inland.

The Hybrid Soya Bus was already there waiting for us, next the driver sent us downhill to Soya Cape Monument (initially we thought we were given 15 mins for this area) and informed us that he would pick us up 30mins later. We told him to drop us near an eating place and he dropped us right in front of the Japan northernmost restaurant. We sat down happily surveying what to eat and wanted to order a seafood ramen. However, a flustered looking waitress came and told us she couldn’t serve us if we were in a hurry (as in 30mins) as they were busy with customers. Mind you only couple of customers including us and we were ordering something like a Japanese fast food, yet they couldn’t cope. I guess this is the beginning of slow life for us

We gave up and walk next door to this provision shop to get a bottle of milk! Yes, “liquid diet” again.

Our bus was back with 2 other passengers. I figured we were the “saviours” to the passengers because we “brought” our bus here. Else, they have to hitch-hiked because there were no bus or taxi in sight in this area. The Hybrid Soya Bus sent us to Wakkanai Train Station, where we walked over to our hotel.

After we checked-into the hotel, we left for Wakkanai Fukuko Market (稚内副港市場) where some stalls open until 11pm. We took a cab there to conserve our energy as it’s more than 1 km or 20mins walk.

The port market was rather quiet at 5plus with most of the customers appeared to be local and not tourists.

The market sells fresh fish and seafood with souvenir shops, food stores, a small gallery and an Onsen.

In the “Hatoba Yokocho”, or restaurant alley, there is a Russian restaurant.

We took a cab back to the hotel as the way back is rather far and we were tired and hungry. We chose to eat ramen at an old shop near our hotel as we would not be able to eat it tomorrow as the shop closes early at 6.30pm. The ramen shop Aoitori (青い鳥) is just round the corner of our hotel.

We walked in the noise or rather music of some festival performance by children in a distance towards the train station. Although we have not seen any Russians yet, we noticed there are many signboards that also come in Russian language.

21_21 Design Sight

21_21 Design Sight, 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo, +81 (0) 3 3475 2121; open 11 a.m.-8 p.m., closed Tuesday and holidays; www.2121designsight.jp

Fuchu Art Museum

Fuchu Art Museum, Sengen-cho 1-3, Fuchu-shi, Tokyo, +81 (0) 42 336 3371; open 10 a.m.-5 p.m., closed Monday, the day after a public holiday and at New Year; www.city.fuchu.tokyo.jp

Related articles

• 50 best rooftop bars and restaurants

While today is Singapore’s 47th National Day, twenty years before that day (in 1945) was another fateful day that most would remember. Nagasaki is a northern city in Kyushu where I visited the Peace Museum twice. The irony of Nagasaki could be read from Nagasaki Wasn’t Supposed to Have Been the Target 67 Years Ago Today.

The locals in Nagasaki somehow couldn’t escape that fateful day. First, Nagasaki was never in the target list. However, it was added later after Kyoto was dropped from the list. Due to poor visibility, another target Kokura (also in Kyushu) was spared…so Nagasaki was the eventual target as the crew had to offload the “forgotten bomb”.

For more reading on that fateful day:

Read The Men Who Dropped the Second Bomb by Australian journalist Craig Collie’s modern account of the US atomic bomb attack on Nagasaki, 67 years ago today. The complete account appeared in London’s Telegraph.

Collie is the author of Nagasaki, a 2011 reconstruction of the decision to drop “the forgotten bomb.”